
I have been looking forward to this tasting ever since I heard about
Catavino's Virtual
Rosé Tasting a week or so ago. Ryan and Gabriella at
Catavino want to encourage folks to explore wines of the "
Iberian Peninsula" - for the geographically-challenged, this means Spain and Portugal.
The rules that
Catavino set for this virtual tasting are pretty simple - pick out a Spanish or Portuguese
rosé, and compare it to a
rosé from virtually anywhere else. You don't even need a blog to join in on the fun - you can post your comments directly to
Catavino's forum!

I chose to compare a Spanish
Navarra rosado with a French
Côte-
du-
Rhône rosé, mainly because I conveniently had both wines in my collection - no need to drive to Virginia! I also thought: Northern Spain, Southern France - the wines should be similar, yes?
The Spanish wine was a 2006
Viña Rubican Rosado from the
Navarra region of Northern Spain. According to
Catavino, Spain classifies
rosé wines into two categories:
rosados and
claretes.
Rosados are apparently what we typically think of as
rosés - light to dark pink in color.
Claretes aren't so much a
rosé as a very light red wine. How does light red differ from dark pink? I have no idea - but now you know what I know.

The French wine was a 2006
Domaine Guy
Mousset Cuvée Réservée Rosé from
Côtes-du-Rhône. I would love to give you more information about it (love to find out more myself!) but I have the hardest time finding out
anything about specific French wines on the 'Net. With any American wine, Google to the rescue - I can learn what varietals are in it, probably even find tasting notes and technical data from the winery. But with the French wines - nothing. The only link I could find to this wine is on
Cellar Tracker. So, I'm not even sure which grapes this wine was made from. I see this as yet another hurdle French wine has in gaining widespread acceptance with American wine drinkers, particularly younger wine drinkers. We demand more information about our products, and the French wine labels and limited online data are unable to satisfy our demands.
Anyway, on to the good part - the tasting!
I didn't even need to open the bottles to immediately notice a distinct difference between the two: the color. Here are two different shots that highlight this - the French
rosé has a light salmon color, while the Spanish
rosado has a deeper,
redish-purple color.


OK, so I probably should have rotated that top picture so that the
rosé was always on the left,
rosado on the right, but you get the idea. I found myself liking the color of the
rosé more - it just looked more elegant in the glass. You'll also notice from the first picture in this post that the two
rosés came in
differently shaped bottles: the Spanish
rosado came in a high-shouldered Bordeaux style bottle, while the French
rosé came in a more gently-sloped
Rhône style bottle.
As for the nose: the
rosado smelled, well, kind of
grapey. Actually, if you've ever taken a tour of a winery, it reminded me of the room where they store all of the aging oak barrels - damp, slightly sweet, and a thick
grapey aroma. It also reminded me a bit of the smell of
port. The
rosé had a much lighter, sweeter nose, with hints of strawberries and citrus.
For the actual tasting, I admit - I went full-bore wine geek on this one. I used a wine thermometer. The absolute height of wine snobbery, I know, but I was inspired by
Winedeb at
Deb's Key West Wine & Garden blog. I always like how inviting her pictures of whites and
rosés look - seeing as how she's in Key West, the bottles get a nice layer of condensation on them probably immediately after taking them outside. They also heat up pretty fast, so after she's done photographing them for her blog she sticks them back in the fridge to cool down again before tasting, and uses a wine thermometer every now and then to check and see if they've chilled enough to be enjoyable.
So, I was digging through my kitchen drawer of wine toys, and lo-and-behold: I actually own a wine thermometer! After reading
Winedeb's posts, I had to try it out and see how/if the temperature affected the taste of the
rosés. After my two bottles were done with their photo shoot, both were at 54° F. Judging from my wine books, this should be the perfect temperature to drink them at: most books seem to say that 50°-55° is right around where you want to serve
rosés.
In the mouth, all of the light, sweet strawberry and citrus on the nose of the French
rosé completely vanished. I was really just getting textures at this point rather than flavors - medium to full-bodied with some bitterness across the back of my tongue, and a slight creaminess to it. There was something annoying me about this wine though, and after letting it sit in my mouth awhile I decided it was the strong
oakiness to it. I've never really been a fan of big oak, preferring "
No Oak Chardonnays" fermented in stainless steel tanks to their often over-
oaked brethren. So I wasn't too happy when some oak showed up in this
rosé, but if you like
oaky Chards then this wouldn't be a turn-off for you. The French
rosé was otherwise pretty tasty. The Spanish
rosado had a very different flavor. There was a
tanginess to it, somewhat lemony. It has less body than the French, but more acidity.
By this point the wine had warmed up a bit - 57° F said my trusty thermometer. Both wines now seemed to have a bigger, sweeter nose. I thought I started smelling some vanilla in the
rosé, while the
rosado had an aroma like a dark red rose. A little bit of fruit flavor also crept in to the taste of the
rosado, almost a sour cherry - still quite tangy.
Overall, both Kris and I liked both wines better when they were a bit warmer - warmer than you are apparently "supposed" to serve
rosés. I liked to color of the French wine better, but enjoyed the uniqueness of the
rosado, and definitely preferred the flavor of the Spanish wine over the French. We had some
Parado cheese and crackers as an appetizer, and the
rosado went perfectly with this tangy cheese. However, with our dinner of grilled salmon, the French wine paired much better.
Final recommendation - I enjoyed trying these wines side-by-side, but neither offered me what I'm looking for in a
rosé. When I think
rosé, I think picnic wine - something to sip on a warm summer day while out in the yard or playing croquet or something. Neither of these wines were "refreshing" enough to do that for me. I know,
rosés are supposedly the "new thing" in wine, and I'm probably still a little gun-shy from
White Zinfandel to have a completely open mind on
rosés. I also just don't know enough about
rosés to have some idea of what to expect when I pop the bottle. Because of this, I think I feel safer with whites for warm weather enjoyment and meals as I have a better understanding of what the wine is going to taste like.
However, both of these wines were still quite tasty in their own very different ways, and I think I'll keep trying out different
rosés this summer. From my experience thus far, I think there are probably better
rosé values out there than the wines in this tasting. Both of these wines were purchased for $9 at Total Wine in McLean. For one dollar less per bottle, a couple weeks ago I tasted a
2006 Anakena Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé from
Rapel Valley, Chile that fit my "summer
rosé" criteria perfectly. I recommend going out and giving that one a shot. Perhaps I'll pick up another next time I'm out, and pair the
Anakena off against another Euro
rosé, and see who comes out on top!